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Sumatra Lintong Aged 2002
June 8, 2007
Jim

Terroir is known for its light roasted, almost sparkling coffees, but they also source the heaviest bodied, lowest acid Arabica coffee available, aged Sumatra. Aged Sumatras have a reputation of being glorious when they are right, and the equivalent of a head first dive into a sewer if they are wrong. Terroir owner, George Howell, is a clean coffee fanatic; so, odd as it seems, this may be the best place to get an aged Indonesian coffee.

I reviewed last year's release of this coffee; and this year's is very similar. Both are meticulously sorted lots and have been aged in climate controlled warehouses. The result is a very focused coffee, consisting of huge body and the sherry casket vanilla-oak so prized by scotch and brandy makers. The endless layers of a more rustic aged Indonesian are not present, but neither is the funk.

While this coffee makes a fine cup brewed on its own; I think this coffee comes into its own as a constituent of very high end blends. Adding this to the bottom end of a fruity, acidic coffee is the coffee equivalent of turning a young brandy into an XO or a young wine into a well aged one. I am a huge fan of this trick, especially in espresso blends.


Dry fragrance: 3.5
Wet Aroma: 3.5
Flavor: 7.5
Finish: 9.0
Acidity: 5.5
Body: 9.0
______________________
TOTAL (subtotal + 50): 88.0


  • Lighter Roasts: Very focused vanilla-oak.
  • Darker Roasts: Medium and darker roasts add some smoky complexity.
  • As Espresso: Doesn't grind right for a straight shot, wonderful in blends.

 

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UPDATED: June 9, 2007