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Colombia Huila -Los Naranjos de San Agustin
June 8, 2007
Jim

In recent years, some of the best coffees have been coming out of Huila in southern Colombia. Los Naranjos is a coop of 97 small-hold farmers who produce around 2000 bags total per year. This lot is a regular selection; later this year, micro- lots may become available. The coffee has scored in the high 80s in several competitions, including the SCAA cupping pavilion, where it placed 8th

I actually liked this coffee more than the juries, since it benefits from a faster air-roast rather than the conventional drum-based sample roasts. Even with a fast and light air-roast, this is a low toned coffee. Baked molasses, butter, and cherries are the dominant flavors. However, unlike the El Salvador or Nicaraguan coffees this profile suggests, the Naranjos has excellent body, a brothy background flavor, and a general structured intensity that is reminiscent of Kenya. The meat-broth hints are especially apparent in the aroma, where it is slightly disconcerting. The structure is a product of slight astringency, so this coffee should not be roasted dark, where this will turn into a negative. It is sweet enough to make an unusual, but tasty SO espresso.


Dry fragrance: 4.5
Wet Aroma: 3.5
Flavor: 8.5
Finish: 8.5
Acidity: 8.0
Body: 8.0
______________________
TOTAL (subtotal + 50): 91.0


  • Lighter Roasts: Molasses, cherries, complex brothy notes; good structure.
  • Darker Roasts: Don't, this coffee will become astringent.
  • As Espresso: Sweet enough for an unusual SO.

 

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UPDATED: June 9, 2007