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Colombia Huila Supremo, "Campo Allegro"

April 28, 2006
Jim Schulman

Campo Allegro is the trade name of a union and beneficio (wet mill) of 35 small farmers of 161 acres total in the 5000 foot and higher eastern Cordillera of the Huila coffee growing region. They grow primarily Caturra and use the traditional Colombian wet process and sun drying method. "Supremo" is a grade based requiring 17 or more screen size for the beans. Uniformly large beans will roast very evenly, but is no guarantee of cup quality. That requires cupping.

Hans Becker knows his business and picked another chameleon coffee: a Colombian supremo that cups like a Guatemala Antigua. The dry aroma is mild hinting at fruit and spice; in the cup the aroma intensifies into dark fruit and clove. The taste is amazingly complex for a Colombian, adding brisk high notes of lemon and lemon zest, deep tones of peaty distillates, and a buttery mouthfeel. The taste balance and finish are clean, but quite dry. This is not a cup that will appeal to a sweet tooth, but those who don't mind a slightly austere cup will be rewarded with memorably complex taste profile. This coffee is too acidic and dry for straight espresso; but it works well as a cappa and as a blender to add complexity to a simpler, sweeter bean used as a base. This coffee will do well up to a dark full city, but probably shouldn't be taken beyond a rolling second crack, on account of its dryness.


Jim's Score
Dry Fragrance: 3.5
Wet Aroma: 4.0
Flavor: 8.5
Finish: 7.0
Acidity: 8.25
Body: 7.5
______________________
TOTAL (subtotal + 50): 88.75

  • Lighter Roasts: Complex and dry, reminiscent of a good Antigua
  • Darker Roasts: Clove and peat at dark Full City
  • As Espresso: Good for cappas and high note blender, not recommended for SO

 

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UPDATED: May 5, 2006