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Bolivian Cenaproc

May 24, 2005
Jim Schulman

The Cenaproc Fair Trade Cooperative is one of the drug war success stories, since the coffee is grown on land previously given over to coca leaf production. They have won the Bolivian Cup of Excellence competition twice, and have ben runners-up in the other years. The coffee was roasted to 435F, a city roast, over 11 minutes, with the first crack starting at 397F (second crack usually starts at 445F).

This is one of the rare coffees that combines properties one usually does not find in a single cup. Complex, yet clean, it begins with chocolate, vanilla and a general fruitiness while hot, and gets sweeter as it cools, adding hints of citrus, ceder, nuts and allspice. It also has medium high acidity; yet makes a creamy espresso even at this light a roast with all the flavors coming through in balance, without excessive acidity. It is not a power cup. I cupped it next to an excellent Yrgacheffe and Harar, and at first it was in their shadow. But as the tasting went on, I found my spoon wandering over to it more and more. As an espresso, it's laid back nature is even more pleasing.

Finally, it's rare I recommend a coffee for cappuccinos and lattes. Almost all sweet coffees will produce a nice caramel cappa at lighter roasts, and a chocolate one at darker roasts; so there's not much point recommending one over another. However, this coffee has a powerful marzipan taste at lighter roasts that is, quite simply, spectacular. For home roasters who drink a lot of cappas, this coffee is a must.

Aroma: 8.5
Flavor: 8.5
Finish: 8.5
Acidity: 7.0
Body: 6.0
____________________
TOTAL (subtotal + 50) 88.5

  • Lighter Roasts: Mild, Complex fruit and roast tastes.
  • Darker Roasts: Will get very woody if taken too far into the 2nd
    crack.
  • As Espresso: Super cappa; pleasing SO; not a blender. Keep it to the first pops or lighter.

 

© 2005 COFFEECUPPERS.COM
UPDATED: June 27, 2005